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02/15/2018
 5 minutes

Undervalued Haute Horlogerie from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and A. Lange & Söhne

By Tom Mulraney
Audemars-Piguet-Jules-Audemars-Extra-Thin-Teaser-1-min
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Extra-Thin, Image: Audemars Piguet

Sometimes you just have to look a little harder to find those hidden gems overlooked by everyone else.

As an inductee into the world of high-end mechanical watches, you have no doubt already come across the hallowed concept of the ‘holy trinity’ of watchmaking. Sometimes referred to as ‘the big three’, this moniker was traditionally used to collectively refer to the three Swiss watch manufacturers that were considered to be the very pinnacle of the industry: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. In the last few decades, a fourth challenger for the title has emerged, only this time they’re from Germany, not Switzerland. I am, of course, referring to the almighty A. Lange & Söhne.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic

These days, everyone has a different opinion as to which of these four brands should comprise the holy trinity, and to some degree it seems interchangeable based on current trends and pieces. One thing everyone can agree on, however, is that timepieces from these esteemed manufacturers are all highly desirable, which is reflected in their high prices, regardless of whether the watch in question is new or pre-owned. Don’t give up on your dream of owning a model from at least one of these brands just yet, however.

We’ve done some sleuthing for you and have found four models that we think are still undervalued relative to the quality, complexity, and, of course, brand recognition that they offer.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5110

World Time watches from Patek Philippe have long been coveted by collectors and are inherently linked with the brand. In 1959, Patek Philippe patented the World Time complication, an ingenious system of two rotating disks that simultaneously and continuously display the time in the world’s 24 major time zones. In 1999, the company introduced additional functionality to the World Time complication by creating a special mechanism that would allow the wearer to correct all the displays at once when changing time zones, simply by pressing a single pusher. This patented system is exclusive to Patek Philippe’s World Time watches.

The following year, the Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5110 made its debut on the market, marking a revival in World Time watches. Presented in a very wearable 37-mm case and available in 18-karat white, yellow, or rose gold, as well as platinum, the distinctive dial displays 24 different time zones with integrated day and night indication. The power behind it all is the automatic Patek Philippe Caliber 240 HU movement, which oscillates at 21,600 bpm. Constructed from 239 parts, including Patek’s patented gyromax balance, it offers a power reserve of 48 hours and can be had for the same price as many less complicated models from this unique manufacturer.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Chronograph Ref. 47120

Founded on September 17, 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron, Vacheron Constantin is the oldest watch manufacturer still in continuous operation. Now, almost 263 years later, the manufacturer is still considered one of the best in the business and can lay claim to the title of  the manufacturer of the most complicated watch ever created. Released in 2015, the Reference 57260 boasts a jaw-dropping 57 complications, an epic achievement even in the world of haute horology.

Us mere mortals, however, have to make do with something slightly less ostentatious but still very attractive, in my opinion. The Vacheron Constantin Malte Chronograph Ref. 47120 represents excellent value for the money and offers a twin-register chronograph in a 41.5-mm round case in your choice of precious metals. If you turn this elegant masterpiece over, you can enjoy the view of something equally beautiful: the famous Lemania caliber used in the first Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch as well as several Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs.

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Ultra Thin

There’s no denying that independently-owned Swiss watch manufacturer, Audemars Piguet, is best known for its Royal Oak collection, which famously saved the company from the brink of bankruptcy back in the 1970s. Created by famed watch designer Gerald Genta, it also simultaneously started the entire luxury sports watch category. However, there is much more to Audemars Piguet than just the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore; you just have to be willing to look.

High on our list is the Jules Audemars Ultra Thin, a stylish dress watch that is suitable for all occasions. Displaying the time only, it is presented in a comfortable 41-mm round case that is just 6.7 mm thick, perfect for those occasions when discretion is required. Inside is Audemars Piguet’s proprietary extra-thin Caliber 2120, an ultra-thin automatic movement that offers a 40-hour power reserve and is visible through the sapphire case back. It is less common (and less expensive) than most other models from the brand but still comes with tons of haute horlogerie and an enviable air of sophistication.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic

If you know your German watchmaking history, then you already know that the current iteration of A. Lange & Söhne has only been in existence for less than three decades. In that time, the brand has achieved things that others have needed centuries to even think about aspiring to, hence their quick ascension to holy trinity contender. When the company was officially relaunched in 1994, one of the cornerstone collections was the Lange 1, which helped define Lange’s distinctive aesthetic. Models from this range are still highly sought after by collectors , as reflected by prices on the second-hand market reflect that.

In 2010, A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Lange 1 Daymatic, the first automatic Lange 1 powered by the new caliber L021.1. Given that the Lange 1 was already well known and much loved for its manually wound movement with a twin mainspring barrel and a 3-day power reserve, this was considered kind of a big deal. It also called for an inversion of the entire architecture of the watch face.

The asymmetrical time-display was moved from 9 o’clock to 3 o’clock, the iconic outsize date to 11 o’clock, and the small seconds subdial to 7 o’clock. The introduction of an automatic movement also meant there was no longer a need for a power reserve indicator, so this has been replaced by a day display running between 8 and 10 o’clock. The Daymatic is truly an exceptional piece that still remains relatively accessible for this style of watch.

So there you have it: four often overlooked and, in our opinion, undervalued models from four of the world’s greatest watch manufacturers. Best get a move on if you want to secure one for your own collection before more people wake up to the value of these pieces and prices react accordingly.      

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About the Author

Tom Mulraney

Growing up in Australia in the 1980s and 90s, there wasn’t much of a watch scene. There was only one authorized retailer of high-end watches in the city I lived in …

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